What Sewing Thread Should I Use? A Beginner's Guide

Choosing sewing thread can feel surprisingly complicated when you're new to sewing.

Walk into a sewing shop or browse online and you'll find cotton thread, polyester thread, specialist stretch thread, different weights, different brands and hundreds of colours.

So how do you know which one to choose?

The good news is that choosing sewing thread doesn't have to be complicated.

For most projects, you can work out what you need by asking a few simple questions:

What am I sewing?

What fabric am I using?

Does the seam need to stretch?

Do I want cotton or polyester thread?

Once you know those things, choosing your thread becomes much easier.

This beginner's guide explains the main types of sewing thread and when to use them. For a more detailed comparison of the Gütermann range specifically, see our Gütermann Sewing Thread Guide.

Quick Guide: Which Sewing Thread Should I Use?

If you just want the quick answer:

For a general-purpose thread, Gütermann Sew-All and Coats Moon are both useful options.

For 100% cotton thread, consider Gütermann Natural Cotton.

For stretch fabrics where the seam needs to stretch, Gütermann Maraflex is the specialist option.

What Is Sewing Thread?

Sewing thread is used to join pieces of fabric together using hand sewing or a sewing machine.

Although all sewing thread performs the same basic job, threads can be made from different fibres and manufactured in different ways.

The most common choices for everyday sewing are:

• Polyester

• Cotton

• Specialist elastic/stretch thread

The best choice depends on the fabric and the type of project you're working on.

Polyester Sewing Thread

Polyester is one of the most versatile choices for general-purpose sewing.

It's widely used for dressmaking, repairs, alterations and everyday sewing because it provides a useful combination of strength, durability and versatility.

Two examples are:

Gütermann Sew-All

Coats Moon

Both are general-purpose polyester sewing threads suitable for a wide range of everyday sewing applications.

Polyester thread is a good choice for:

• Dressmaking

• Clothing

• Repairs

• Alterations

• General sewing

• Cotton fabrics

• Polyester fabrics

• Craft projects

• Sewing machines

• Hand sewing

If you're new to sewing and want a useful everyday thread to start with, a good-quality polyester thread is often the easiest place to begin.

Gütermann Sew-All

Gütermann Sew-All is designed as a general-purpose polyester sewing thread.

It's suitable for household sewing machines and hand sewing and can be used for many common sewing applications.

It's particularly useful if you're looking for an everyday thread that can be used across different projects.

At The Yorkshire Sewing Guy, we currently stock 40 colours of Gütermann Sew-All.

Shop Gütermann Sew-All

Coats Moon

Coats Moon is another popular general-purpose polyester sewing thread.

Like Gütermann Sew-All, it's designed for everyday sewing applications including dressmaking, repairs and alterations.

If you already use Coats products or find the colour you need in the Moon range, it's a practical option for general sewing.

Browse our Sewing Threads

For a detailed comparison, see our guide to Coats Moon vs Gütermann Sew-All.

Cotton Sewing Thread

Cotton thread is made from natural cotton fibres and is a popular choice for quilting, patchwork and sewing with natural-fibre fabrics.

If you specifically want a 100% cotton thread, Gütermann Natural Cotton is an excellent option.

At The Yorkshire Sewing Guy, we stock 40 colours of Gütermann Natural Cotton.

Cotton thread is particularly popular for:

• Quilting

• Patchwork

• Quilt piecing

• Cotton fabrics

• Natural-fibre fabrics

• Linen

• Craft projects

• General sewing

• Hand sewing

Shop Gütermann Natural Cotton

Remember that sewing cotton fabric doesn't automatically mean you have to use cotton thread. Polyester thread can also be suitable for many cotton-fabric projects. See our Gütermann Sew-All vs Natural Cotton guide for a full comparison.

Stretch Sewing Thread

If you're sewing stretch fabric, the requirements are slightly different.

A standard general-purpose thread isn't specifically designed to provide highly elastic seams.

If your finished seam needs to move and stretch with the fabric, consider a specialist stretch or elastic sewing thread.

Gütermann Maraflex is designed specifically for creating flexible seams using a standard straight stitch.

It can provide up to 80% seam stretch and is particularly useful for stretch fabrics and close-fitting garments.

Maraflex is particularly useful for:

• Jersey

• Knitted fabrics

• T-shirts

• Stretch dresses

• Close-fitting clothing

• Stretch necklines

• Cuffs

• Flexible seams

Shop Gütermann Maraflex

Read our full Gütermann Maraflex vs Sew-All guide for more detail.

What Thread Should I Use for Cotton Fabric?

If you're sewing cotton fabric, you have several options.

Use cotton thread if:

• You specifically want a natural-fibre thread

• You're quilting

• You're patchworking

• You're working on a cotton project

• You prefer 100% cotton thread

Use polyester thread if:

• You're making clothing

• You're carrying out repairs

• You want an everyday general-purpose thread

• You sew lots of different fabrics

Both can be appropriate. Don't feel that you have to match the fibre of your thread to the fibre of your fabric. See our guide to cotton vs polyester sewing thread for a detailed breakdown.

What Thread Should I Use for Quilting?

For quilting, 100% cotton thread is a popular choice, particularly when working with cotton quilting fabrics.

Gütermann Natural Cotton is therefore a good option to consider.

However, polyester thread can also be used for many quilting projects.

Your choice can depend on:

• Fabric

• Quilting technique

• Desired finish

• Personal preference

• Thread colour

• Thread characteristics

If you're new to quilting and aren't sure what to buy, cotton thread is a sensible starting point if you specifically want a natural-fibre thread.

What Thread Should I Use for Patchwork?

For patchwork, 100% cotton thread is a popular option.

Gütermann Natural Cotton is particularly suited to patchwork and quilt piecing.

Choosing the right colour is also important.

If your patchwork contains several colours, you may want a thread that coordinates with the fabrics rather than trying to find an exact match for every individual piece.

If you're regularly working with lots of colours, a thread set can be a convenient way to build your collection.

Browse Gütermann Thread Range

What Thread Should I Use for Dressmaking?

For most general dressmaking projects, a good-quality polyester sewing thread is a versatile choice.

Gütermann Sew-All and Coats Moon are both suitable options for many dressmaking applications.

Before choosing your thread, consider:

• The fabric weight

• Whether the fabric stretches

• The colour

• The type of seam

• Whether the stitching will be visible

For stretch garments, consider Maraflex where a flexible seam is required.

What Thread Should I Use for Jersey?

Jersey and other knitted fabrics can stretch considerably, so thread choice becomes particularly important.

If the seam needs to stretch with the fabric, consider Gütermann Maraflex.

Maraflex is designed to create flexible seams using a standard straight stitch and can provide up to 80% seam stretch.

The correct needle is also important.

For Maraflex, Gütermann recommends suitable Jersey, Stretch or Super Stretch needles in NM 70–80, depending on the fabric.

Always test your thread, needle and machine settings on a scrap of fabric first.

What Thread Should I Use for Repairs?

For everyday clothing repairs, general-purpose polyester thread is usually a useful option.

Gütermann Sew-All and Coats Moon are both suitable choices for many repairs and alterations.

The most important thing is often getting a good colour match.

For example, if you're repairing a navy pair of trousers, a close navy thread will make the repair much less noticeable.

What Thread Should I Use for Hand Sewing?

Both cotton and polyester thread can be used for hand sewing.

For general repairs and everyday sewing, polyester thread is a versatile option.

For quilting, patchwork or projects where you specifically want a natural-fibre thread, cotton can be an excellent choice.

Your needle should also be appropriate for the thread and fabric you're using.

What Thread Should I Use for a Sewing Machine?

For a general-purpose household sewing machine, polyester sewing thread is an excellent starting point.

Gütermann Sew-All and Coats Moon are both general-purpose polyester threads suitable for many sewing machine projects.

If you're quilting and specifically want cotton, Gütermann Natural Cotton is another option.

If you're sewing stretch fabric and need a flexible seam, consider Gütermann Maraflex.

What Sewing Machine Needle Should I Use?

Choosing the right needle is just as important as choosing the thread.

As a general guide:

The exact needle size depends on the fabric and thread.

Always check the needle manufacturer's recommendations and test your stitching before starting the finished project.

Does Sewing Thread Have to Match the Fabric?

Not necessarily.

For most seams, choose a thread colour that is close to the fabric if you want the stitching to blend in.

But thread can also be used deliberately as part of the design.

You might choose:

• A contrasting colour for topstitching

• A bold colour for decorative quilting

• A coordinating colour for patchwork

• A matching colour for concealed seams

If colour matching is particularly important, use a physical shade card where possible. Gütermann shade cards are available in our Downloads section.

Colours displayed on screens can vary depending on your device, monitor settings, photography and lighting.

What Thread Weight Should I Use?

Thread weight can be confusing when you're starting out.

The most important thing is that your thread should be appropriate for the fabric and sewing technique.

For everyday sewing, it's generally best to use a thread intended for general-purpose sewing rather than trying to choose a thread solely by its numerical weight.

If you're following a commercial sewing pattern, check whether the manufacturer gives any specific thread recommendations.

For specialist applications such as quilting, embroidery or heavy-duty sewing, the thread requirements may be different.

Do I Need Different Threads for Different Projects?

You don't necessarily need dozens of different thread types.

For many sewists, a small selection of good-quality general-purpose thread will cover a surprising number of projects.

A useful starter collection might include:

General-purpose polyester thread

For everyday sewing, dressmaking and repairs.

Cotton thread

For quilting, patchwork and projects where you specifically want cotton.

Stretch thread

For projects where the seam needs to stretch.

You can then add specialist threads as your sewing develops.

Individual Spools or Thread Sets?

If you're just starting out, you may find yourself wondering whether to buy individual colours or a complete set.

Individual spools are ideal when:

• You know exactly what colour you need

• You're matching a particular fabric

• You only need one or two colours

• You're replacing a thread you've run out of

Thread sets are useful when:

• You're building your first collection

• You regularly sew different colours

• You're quilting or patchworking

• You want several colours together

• You're buying a gift for a sewist

At The Yorkshire Sewing Guy, we stock individual Gütermann spools as well as thread sets for projects where you need more than one colour.

Explore Gütermann Thread Range

How Many Spools of Thread Do I Need?

For most individual sewing projects, one spool may be enough, but it depends on the size of the project and how much thread your machine uses.

If you're making a garment, quilting a large project or working with several colours, you may need more.

It's also worth remembering that you can use different thread colours for different parts of the same project.

For example, you might use:

• Matching thread for construction seams

• Contrasting thread for topstitching

• A different colour in the bobbin if appropriate

If you regularly sew, keeping a small collection of commonly used colours can save you from having to order thread every time you start a new project.

How Do I Store Sewing Thread?

Keeping your thread clean, dry and away from direct sunlight will help protect it while it's stored.

A thread box, drawer organiser or dedicated thread rack can make it much easier to see the colours you have available.

If you have several brands or thread types, organising them by brand, thread type or colour can make finding the right spool much quicker.

A Simple Sewing Thread Checklist

Before buying your thread, ask yourself:

1. What am I making?

A garment, quilt, repair, craft project or something else?

2. What fabric am I using?

Cotton, linen, polyester, jersey, denim or another fabric?

3. Does the seam need to stretch?

If yes, consider a specialist stretch thread.

4. Do I want cotton or polyester?

Choose based on the characteristics you want from your project.

5. What colour do I need?

Match the fabric for discreet seams or choose a contrasting shade for decorative stitching.

6. How much do I need?

One spool may be enough for a small project, while larger projects or multiple colours may require several spools.

Which Sewing Thread Should a Beginner Buy?

If you're completely new to sewing and don't know where to start, we'd recommend keeping things simple.

Start with a good-quality general-purpose polyester thread in a few useful colours.

Gütermann Sew-All and Coats Moon are both good options.

You can then add cotton thread when you start quilting or patchworking, and a specialist stretch thread if you begin sewing jersey and other stretch fabrics.

There's no need to buy every type of thread at once.

Build your collection as your sewing develops.

Sewing Thread at The Yorkshire Sewing Guy

At The Yorkshire Sewing Guy, we stock a growing range of Gütermann and Coats sewing threads for different types of sewing.

Our range includes:

• Gütermann Sew-All – general-purpose polyester thread

• Gütermann Natural Cotton – 100% cotton thread

• Gütermann Maraflex – specialist elastic sewing thread

• Coats Moon – general-purpose polyester thread

• Gütermann thread sets – useful collections of multiple colours

We offer individual spools when you know exactly what you need, as well as sets for those projects where you need a wider selection of colours.

Browse our full Sewing Threads collection

Final Thoughts

Choosing sewing thread doesn't have to be complicated.

Start with the fabric and project, then choose the thread that suits them.

For everyday sewing and dressmaking, a general-purpose polyester thread such as Gütermann Sew-All or Coats Moon is a versatile choice.

For quilting and patchwork, Gütermann Natural Cotton is worth considering if you specifically want 100% cotton thread.

For stretch fabrics where your seams need to move with the fabric, Gütermann Maraflex is the specialist option.

And if you're building your sewing collection, don't forget that thread sets can be a convenient way to get several useful colours together.

Most importantly, don't be afraid to experiment.

A little testing on a scrap of fabric before starting your project can save a lot of frustration later.

Happy sewing!

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best thread for beginners?

A good-quality general-purpose polyester thread is a useful starting point for beginners. Gütermann Sew-All and Coats Moon are both examples of versatile polyester sewing threads.

What thread should I use for a sewing machine?

For general sewing, a good-quality polyester thread such as Gütermann Sew-All or Coats Moon is a versatile choice. The appropriate thread also depends on the fabric and project.

Should I use cotton or polyester thread?

It depends on your project. Cotton is popular for quilting, patchwork and projects where a natural-fibre thread is preferred. Polyester is a versatile choice for general sewing, dressmaking, repairs and alterations. See our full guide to cotton vs polyester sewing thread.

What thread should I use for cotton fabric?

Both cotton and polyester thread can be suitable for cotton fabric. Choose cotton if you specifically want a natural-fibre thread, or polyester if you want a versatile general-purpose option.

What thread should I use for quilting?

100% cotton thread is a popular choice for quilting and patchwork. Gütermann Natural Cotton is particularly suited to these applications.

What thread should I use for stretch fabric?

If your seam needs to stretch with the fabric, consider a specialist elastic sewing thread such as Gütermann Maraflex.

What thread should I use for jersey?

For jersey and other stretch fabrics, Gütermann Maraflex is designed to create flexible seams. Read our Maraflex vs Sew-All guide for more detail. A suitable jersey, stretch or super-stretch needle is also important.

Does thread colour have to match the fabric?

No. You can use a matching colour for discreet seams or a contrasting colour for decorative stitching, quilting and topstitching.

Do I need different thread for my bobbin?

Not necessarily. For many general sewing projects, the same suitable thread can be used in the needle and bobbin. Specialist threads may have their own recommendations, so always check the manufacturer's guidance.

Should I buy thread individually or in sets?

Individual spools are ideal when you know the exact colour you need. Thread sets are useful when you need several colours or are building your sewing collection. Browse our Gütermann thread range to see what's available.