Cotton vs Polyester Sewing Thread: Which Should You Use?
Choosing the right sewing thread can sometimes be confusing, particularly when you're faced with the choice between cotton and polyester thread.
Does cotton thread work better with cotton fabric? Is polyester stronger? Which should you use for quilting? What about dressmaking? And is one better for sewing machines?
The good news is that there isn't one thread that is best for every sewing project.
Cotton and polyester sewing threads have different characteristics, and the best choice depends on your fabric, project and the result you're trying to achieve.
In this guide, we'll explain the differences between cotton and polyester sewing thread and help you decide which is right for your next project. For a full overview of the Gütermann thread range, see our Gütermann Sewing Thread Guide.
Cotton vs Polyester Thread at a Glance
| Cotton Thread | Polyester Thread | |
|---|---|---|
| Fibre | Natural cotton | Synthetic polyester |
| Natural fibre | ✓ | — |
| General sewing | ✓ | ✓ |
| Dressmaking | ✓ | ✓ |
| Quilting | ✓ | ✓ |
| Patchwork | ✓ | ✓ |
| Repairs | ✓ | ✓ |
| Sewing machines | ✓ | ✓ |
| Hand sewing | ✓ | ✓ |
| Stretch | Limited | Limited |
| Specialist stretch thread | — | Available, e.g. Maraflex |
| Best known for | Natural-fibre sewing and quilting | Versatility and general-purpose sewing |
Neither column automatically wins.
The right thread depends on what you're making.
What Is Cotton Sewing Thread?
Cotton sewing thread is made from natural cotton fibres.
It's been used for sewing and textiles for generations and remains a popular choice for sewing, quilting and patchwork.
At The Yorkshire Sewing Guy, our Gütermann Natural Cotton range is made from 100% cotton and is available in 40 colours.
Cotton thread can be particularly appealing if you're working with natural fabrics or specifically want a natural-fibre thread.
Cotton thread is particularly useful for:
Quilting
Patchwork
Quilt piecing
Cotton fabrics
Natural-fibre fabrics
Linen
Craft projects
General sewing
Hand sewing
Sewing machine projects
Shop Gütermann Natural Cotton Thread
What Is Polyester Sewing Thread?
Polyester sewing thread is made from a synthetic fibre and is one of the most widely used types of sewing thread.
It is particularly popular for general-purpose sewing and dressmaking because polyester thread offers useful strength, durability and versatility.
Our Gütermann Sew-All and Coats Moon ranges are examples of general-purpose polyester sewing threads.
Polyester thread is particularly useful for:
General sewing
Dressmaking
Repairs
Alterations
Clothing
Cotton fabrics
Polyester fabrics
Craft projects
Sewing machines
Hand sewing
You can also explore our full range of sewing threads, including Coats Moon.
Is Cotton or Polyester Thread Stronger?
This is one of the most common questions when comparing the two.
In general, polyester thread offers greater strength than cotton thread of comparable size, although actual performance depends on the particular thread construction and specification.
Polyester is also valued for its resistance to abrasion and its versatility.
However, strength isn't the only factor that matters when choosing thread.
A sewing thread needs to be appropriate for the fabric and the type of seam you're creating.
A thread that is very strong isn't automatically the best thread for every project.
Cotton vs Polyester Thread for Quilting
Quilting is one area where the choice between cotton and polyester can be particularly personal.
Many quilters prefer 100% cotton thread, particularly when working with cotton quilting fabrics.
Gütermann Natural Cotton is therefore a popular choice for:
Patchwork
Quilt piecing
Cotton fabrics
Quilting projects
Natural-fibre sewing
However, polyester thread can also be used for many quilting applications.
The best choice depends on your preferences, the construction of your quilt and the finish you're looking to achieve.
For a full comparison, see our Gütermann Sew-All vs Natural Cotton guide.
If you specifically want cotton:
Gütermann Natural Cotton is the obvious option within our range.
Browse Gütermann Natural Cotton
Cotton vs Polyester Thread for Dressmaking
For general dressmaking, polyester thread is a very versatile choice.
A good-quality polyester thread can be used for many common garment fabrics and is particularly useful for everyday clothing construction, repairs and alterations.
Gütermann Sew-All and Coats Moon are both examples of general-purpose polyester threads.
Cotton thread can also be appropriate
If you're making a garment from cotton or another natural fabric and specifically want to use cotton thread, a cotton sewing thread may also be suitable.
The choice doesn't have to be based solely on the fabric.
For example:
Cotton fabric + polyester thread can be perfectly appropriate.
Cotton fabric + cotton thread can also be appropriate.
Think about the complete project rather than assuming that the thread fibre must always match the fabric fibre.
Cotton vs Polyester Thread for Sewing Machines
Both cotton and polyester sewing threads can be used with household sewing machines.
The important thing is to choose a thread and needle combination that is appropriate for the fabric.
If you're changing from one type of thread to another, it's always worth testing your machine settings on a scrap of the same fabric.
You may need to consider:
Needle type
Needle size
Thread tension
Stitch length
Bobbin
Fabric weight
Machine settings
A poorly balanced stitch isn't necessarily caused by the thread itself.
Cotton vs Polyester for Hand Sewing
Both can be used for hand sewing.
Cotton thread can be particularly appealing for hand-sewn projects where a natural fibre is preferred.
Polyester thread is a versatile option for everyday repairs, alterations and general sewing.
The choice comes down to the project and the characteristics you're looking for.
Which Thread Is Better for Natural Fabrics?
If you specifically want a natural-fibre thread, cotton is the obvious choice.
Gütermann Natural Cotton is made from 100% cotton and can be used for projects involving cotton, linen and other natural fabrics.
However, using polyester thread with natural fabrics is not inherently wrong.
Polyester is routinely used for sewing garments and other textile products made from natural fabrics.
So the question is less:
“Does cotton fabric need cotton thread?”
and more:
“What properties do I want from my sewing thread?”
Which Thread Is Better for Polyester Fabric?
Polyester thread is an obvious choice when sewing polyester and other synthetic fabrics.
Its strength and versatility make it suitable for many synthetic-fabric sewing applications.
However, the correct thread choice still depends on the fabric construction and project.
Always check the fabric manufacturer's recommendations where available.
What About Stretch Fabric?
This is where it's important to distinguish thread fibre from thread function.
A standard polyester thread such as Gütermann Sew-All is not the same thing as an elastic sewing thread.
If you're sewing a stretch fabric and need your seam to stretch with the fabric, a specialist elastic thread may be more appropriate.
Gütermann Maraflex is specifically designed to create flexible seams and can provide up to 80% seam stretch.
It's particularly useful for:
Jersey
Knitted fabrics
T-shirts
Stretch dresses
Close-fitting garments
Stretch necklines
Cuffs
For more information, see our Gütermann Maraflex vs Sew-All guide.
Does Polyester Thread Stretch?
Standard polyester sewing thread isn't an elastic thread in the same way that Maraflex is.
This distinction is important.
Polyester thread can have some flexibility depending on its construction, but a general-purpose polyester thread should not be confused with a specialist elastic sewing thread.
If your project requires a seam with significant stretch, look for a thread specifically designed for that application.
Does Cotton Thread Shrink?
Cotton is a natural fibre and can behave differently from synthetic polyester thread when exposed to washing, heat and moisture.
This is one reason that preparing your fabric and considering the complete project is important when choosing thread.
If your project will be washed regularly, consider how both the fabric and thread will behave together.
For quilts and other washable projects, following the fabric and thread manufacturer's care recommendations is always sensible.
Is Cotton Thread Better for Quilting?
For quilters who prefer natural fibres, 100% cotton thread is a popular choice.
Gütermann Natural Cotton is particularly suitable for quilting and patchwork.
However, there isn't a universal rule that says polyester thread cannot be used for quilting.
Your choice may depend on:
Your quilting technique
Fabric
Desired finish
Personal preference
Thread colour
Thread construction
Cotton vs Polyester Thread for Repairs
For everyday clothing repairs, polyester thread is often a practical choice because of its versatility and durability.
Gütermann Sew-All and Coats Moon are both useful general-purpose polyester options.
Cotton thread can also be appropriate for repairs, particularly where you want a cotton thread or are working with a natural-fibre project.
The most important consideration is finding a suitable thread and a good colour match.
Which Thread Should I Use for a Sewing Machine?
If you're looking for a good everyday sewing machine thread, polyester is a very versatile starting point.
Gütermann Sew-All and Coats Moon are both general-purpose polyester threads suitable for many household sewing machine applications.
If you're specifically quilting or working with cotton fabrics and prefer natural-fibre thread, Gütermann Natural Cotton is another option.
And if you're sewing stretch fabric and need flexible seams, consider Gütermann Maraflex.
What About Thread Sets?
If you're regularly sewing projects in different colours, you may find yourself needing several spools.
Rather than buying every colour individually, thread sets can be a convenient way to build up your collection.
They're particularly useful for:
Quilters
Patchworkers
Dressmakers
New sewists
Crafters
Sewing rooms
Gifts for sewing enthusiasts
At The Yorkshire Sewing Guy, we stock individual spools as well as Gütermann thread sets for projects where you need more than one colour.
Cotton vs Polyester: Which Should You Choose?
If you're still unsure, use this simple guide.
Choose cotton thread if:
✓ You specifically want a natural-fibre thread
✓ You're quilting or patchworking
✓ You're working with cotton fabrics
✓ You're working with natural fibres
✓ You prefer the characteristics of cotton thread
Choose polyester thread if:
✓ You want an everyday general-purpose thread
✓ You're dressmaking
✓ You're carrying out repairs or alterations
✓ You're sewing a wide range of fabrics
✓ You want a versatile sewing machine thread
✓ You're working with synthetic fabrics
Choose a specialist elastic thread if:
✓ You're sewing stretch fabrics
✓ Your seam needs to stretch
✓ You're making close-fitting stretch garments
✓ You're sewing jersey or knitted fabrics
For this type of project, Gütermann Maraflex is worth considering.
Cotton vs Polyester Sewing Thread: Our Verdict
There isn't one universal winner.
Cotton thread is an excellent choice when you specifically want a natural-fibre thread and is particularly popular for quilting, patchwork and sewing with cotton and other natural fabrics.
Polyester thread is an extremely versatile option for general sewing, dressmaking, repairs and alterations.
And for stretch fabrics, a specialist elastic thread such as Gütermann Maraflex may be a better choice than either standard cotton or polyester thread.
At The Yorkshire Sewing Guy, we stock a selection of Gütermann and Coats threads, including Sew-All, Natural Cotton, Maraflex and Coats Moon, as well as thread sets for when you need several colours.
Browse our full range of Sewing Threads
Frequently Asked Questions
Is cotton or polyester thread better?
Neither is universally better. Cotton and polyester have different characteristics and are suited to different sewing projects.
Is polyester thread stronger than cotton?
Generally, polyester thread offers greater strength than cotton thread of comparable size, although the exact performance depends on the thread construction and specification.
Should I use cotton thread with cotton fabric?
You can, but you don't have to. Polyester thread can also be used successfully with many cotton fabrics.
Is cotton thread better for quilting?
100% cotton thread is a popular choice for quilting and patchwork, particularly for quilters who prefer natural fibres. Gütermann Natural Cotton is specifically suited to these types of projects.
Can I use polyester thread for quilting?
Yes. Polyester thread can be used for many quilting applications. The choice depends on the project, fabric and your personal preference.
Is polyester thread good for dressmaking?
Yes. Polyester is a versatile sewing thread and is widely used for general dressmaking, clothing construction, repairs and alterations.
Can I use cotton thread in a sewing machine?
Yes. Suitable cotton sewing thread can be used in household sewing machines. Always select an appropriate needle and machine setting for the thread and fabric.
Does polyester thread stretch?
Standard polyester sewing thread should not be confused with specialist elastic thread. If your seam needs significant stretch, consider a thread specifically designed for stretch fabrics, such as Gütermann Maraflex.
What thread should I use for stretch fabric?
For seams that need to stretch with the fabric, consider a specialist elastic sewing thread such as Gütermann Maraflex. Read our Maraflex vs Sew-All guide for more detail.
Can I use cotton and polyester thread together?
In many sewing projects, suitable cotton and polyester threads can be used in the same project. Consider the fabric, thread characteristics and intended use when choosing your thread.
Should I buy individual spools or a thread set?
Individual spools are ideal when you know the exact colour you need. Thread sets can be a convenient way to build a collection when you need several colours. Browse our Gütermann thread range to see what's available.
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