Woven vs Non-Woven Interfacing: What's the Difference?

If you've ever stood in front of a selection of sewing interfacings wondering "What's the difference between woven and non-woven interfacing?", you're not alone.

Interfacing can look very similar on the roll, but the way it is made can make a surprisingly big difference to how it behaves when you sew with it.

Some interfacings are made from fibres bonded together, while others are actually made by weaving fibres together in much the same way as ordinary fabric.

So which should you choose?

The answer depends on your fabric, your project and the finish you want.

In this guide, we'll explain the difference between woven and non-woven interfacing, look at the advantages of each and explain when you might want to choose one over the other.

What is interfacing?

Interfacing is a material that's applied to the wrong side of fabric to give it additional support, stability, structure or body.

It can be used for everything from dressmaking and tailoring to bag making, quilting and general sewing projects.

Some interfacing is fusible, meaning it has an adhesive coating that can be activated with heat from an iron.

Other interfacings are sew-in and are attached by stitching instead.

This article concentrates mainly on the difference between woven and non-woven fusible interfacings, as these are among the most commonly used by home sewists.

What is woven interfacing?

Woven interfacing is made by weaving fibres together to create a fabric.

Because it is woven, it has characteristics that are much closer to ordinary fabric.

It has a grain, just like the fabric you're sewing with, and it generally moves and behaves more naturally than a non-woven alternative.

Vlieseline G700 and B700 are examples of woven fusible interfacings.

Why use woven interfacing?

One of the biggest advantages of woven interfacing is the way it integrates with your fabric.

Rather than simply making the fabric feel stiffer, it can provide additional support while still retaining a relatively natural fabric feel.

This makes woven interfacing particularly useful for many garment-making applications.

It can be a great choice for:

• Shirts
• Blouses
• Dresses
• Collars
• Cuffs
• Waistbands
• Lightweight and medium-weight garments
• Cotton fabrics
• Projects where retaining fabric movement is important

What is non-woven interfacing?

Non-woven interfacing isn't made by weaving fibres together.

Instead, fibres are bonded together to create a sheet-like material.

Because there isn't a woven structure, non-woven interfacing doesn't have a conventional fabric grain in the same way that woven interfacing does.

This can make non-woven interfacing particularly versatile.

Vlieseline H250 is a good example.

It is a non-woven fusible interfacing that can be used when you want to add firmness and stability to your fabric.

Woven vs non-woven interfacing at a glance

These are general characteristics. Individual interfacings can behave differently depending on their weight, fibre composition and adhesive.

Is woven interfacing better than non-woven?

No.

This is probably the most important thing to remember.

Woven interfacing isn't automatically better than non-woven interfacing, and non-woven isn't automatically better either.

They're simply different tools for different jobs.

Imagine comparing a screwdriver with a hammer.

Neither is "better". You choose the one that's appropriate for the job.

The same applies to interfacing.

If you're making a shirt and want the interfacing to behave more like the fabric, a woven interfacing could be an excellent choice.

If you're making a bag and want to add firmness and stability, a suitable non-woven interfacing may be exactly what you need.

When should you use woven interfacing?

Woven interfacing is particularly useful when you want to support your fabric without completely changing its character.

For example, imagine you're making a cotton shirt.

You may want the collar and cuffs to have additional support, but you don't necessarily want them to become rigid.

A woven interfacing such as G700 can provide support while retaining a fabric-like quality.

Similarly, B700 is a woven cotton fusible interfacing designed with biodegradable materials and adhesive.

You can read more about the differences between these products in our guide: Vlieseline H250 vs G700 vs B700: Which Interfacing Should You Use?

When should you use non-woven interfacing?

Non-woven interfacing can be particularly useful when firmness, stability or structure is the priority.

For example, Vlieseline H250 can be useful for:

• Waistbands
• Belts
• Collars
• Cuffs
• Bags
• Pouches
• Craft projects
• Fabric accessories

It can give fabric additional body without requiring a woven interfacing.

For structured projects, there are also heavier stabilisers and interfacings available, so don't assume that H250 is the right choice simply because it is non-woven.

Does woven interfacing have a grain?

Yes.

Because woven interfacing is constructed from woven threads, it has a grain.

This means you need to pay attention to the direction of the interfacing when cutting it.

For many projects, you'll want the grain of the interfacing to correspond appropriately with the grain of the fabric.

This is particularly important for garments.

A simple tip

If your pattern has a grainline, don't ignore it simply because you're cutting interfacing.

Treat your woven interfacing much more like fabric.

Does non-woven interfacing have a grain?

Not in the conventional woven-fabric sense.

Because the fibres aren't woven into a fabric structure, there isn't a warp and weft grain.

This can make non-woven interfacing easier to cut and use in some applications.

It also means you don't have to worry about matching a woven grain when positioning it.

However, always follow the manufacturer's instructions for the particular interfacing you're using.

Which is best for dressmaking?

For dressmaking, woven interfacing is often an excellent choice, particularly where you want the finished garment to retain a natural fabric feel.

It can work particularly well for:

• Shirt collars
• Cuffs
• Waistbands
• Plackets
• Jackets
• Lightweight garments
• Structured garment sections

However, that doesn't mean non-woven interfacing shouldn't be used for clothing.

There are many non-woven interfacings specifically designed for dressmaking.

The most important factors are:

1. The weight of your fabric
2. The amount of support required
3. The drape you want
4. The manufacturer's recommendation

Which is best for bag making?

This is where things get interesting.

Both woven and non-woven interfacings can be useful for bags.

Woven interfacing

A woven fusible can provide support while allowing the fabric to retain some of its natural characteristics.

This can work particularly well for softer bags and fabrics where you don't want an overly rigid finish.

Non-woven interfacing

Non-woven products can be excellent when you want to add more structure and firmness.

For example, H250 can be useful for smaller bags and pouches where additional body is required.

For very structured bags, you may want to look beyond standard interfacing altogether and consider a dedicated stabiliser.

What about quilting?

Interfacing can also be useful in quilting and fabric crafts.

However, don't confuse interfacing with wadding.

They perform different jobs.

Interfacing is generally used to support or stabilise the fabric.

Wadding provides the loft and padding within a quilt.

For some quilting projects, a lightweight fusible interfacing can be useful for stabilising particular fabrics or creating specific effects, but it isn't normally a substitute for quilt wadding.

Can you use woven and non-woven interfacing together?

Sometimes, yes.

There are projects where combining different stabilising materials can produce the desired result.

For example, you might use a woven interfacing to support the fabric and another stabiliser to provide additional structure.

However, you should always test combinations first.

Adding multiple layers can make fabric significantly firmer than expected and may affect:

• Sewing machine performance
• Seam allowances
• Turning corners
• Pressing
• Drape
• Thickness

Always make a test piece before committing to your finished project.

How do I choose the right interfacing?

Rather than starting with "woven or non-woven?", start by asking:

1. What am I making?

A shirt needs something different from a structured bag.

2. What fabric am I using?

A lightweight cotton needs a different approach from heavy denim.

3. How much support do I need?

Do you want subtle stability or significant structure?

4. Do I want the fabric to retain its natural feel?

If yes, a woven interfacing may be worth considering.

5. Does the pattern recommend a particular product?

If it does, that's a good starting point.

Always test before applying interfacing

This is probably the best piece of interfacing advice we can give.

Don't apply a new interfacing directly to your finished project without testing it first.

Take a scrap of the actual fabric you're using and apply a small piece of the interfacing.

Then check:

• Does it provide enough support?
• Is it too stiff?
• Has the drape changed?
• Has the fabric puckered?
• Is the adhesive bonding properly?
• Does the colour or appearance look different?
• How does it feel after cooling?

A five-minute test can save hours of work.

Don't forget the manufacturer's instructions

Different interfacings have different application temperatures, pressing times and techniques.

Even two products that look similar can have different instructions.

Always check the instructions supplied with your particular interfacing.

For example, some products are applied using a damp pressing cloth, while others have different temperature or pressing requirements.

If in doubt, test first.

Woven vs non-woven: the simple answer

If you want the short version:

Choose woven interfacing when:

• You want a more fabric-like feel
• You're working with garments
• You want the interfacing to behave more naturally with the fabric
• Maintaining drape and movement is important
• You are happy to work with a grain

Choose non-woven interfacing when:

• You want additional firmness or stability
• You're making bags, pouches or fabric accessories
• You don't want to worry about a fabric grain
• The particular non-woven product suits the structure you need

But remember: the individual product matters just as much as whether it is woven or non-woven.

A lightweight woven interfacing and a heavy woven interfacing can behave very differently, just as two non-woven interfacings can have completely different characteristics.

Shop interfacing at The Yorkshire Sewing Guy

If you're looking for interfacing for your next sewing project, take a look at our growing range of Vlieseline, Pellon and The Yorkshire Sewing Guy interfacings and stabilisers.

Browse Interfacings & Interlinings

From lightweight woven fusible interfacings through to products designed to add firmness and structure, we aim to make it easier to find the right product for your project.

And if you're not sure which interfacing you need, get in touch — we're always happy to help.