Choosing the right interfacing can make a real difference to the finished result of your sewing project. Whether you're making clothes, bags, pouches or quilting projects, woven interfacing is a popular choice when you want to add support and stability while retaining a fabric-like feel.
But with products from Vlieseline, Hemline and Pellon, alongside alternative cotton woven interfacings, how do you know which one to choose?
In this guide, we'll compare some of the most popular woven fusible interfacings, explain their differences and help you decide which is right for your next project.
What is woven interfacing?
Woven interfacing is made from fibres woven together to create a fabric-like material. Unlike non-woven interfacing, it has a grain direction and generally behaves more like the fabric it is applied to.
It is commonly used for:
- Shirt and blouse collars and cuffs
- Dressmaking and garment construction
- Waistbands and facings
- Bags, pouches and fabric accessories
- Quilting and embroidery projects
- Areas where additional stability is needed without excessive stiffness
The products in this comparison are fusible, meaning they have an adhesive coating that bonds to fabric using heat from an iron.
Woven interfacing comparison: which should you choose?
There are several woven cotton interfacings available, but they aren't all identical. Differences in width, adhesive, weight and manufacturer recommendations can influence which is best for your project.
| Product | Width | Weight | Main advantage |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vlieseline G700 | 90cm | 90gsm | Established garment interfacing |
| Vlieseline B700 | 90cm | 90gsm | Biodegradable adhesive |
| Hemline HN100 | 90cm | 90gsm | Medium-weight garment support |
| Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex | 20″ / 50.8cm | Not specified in our listing | Versatile American woven interfacing |
| TYSG Cotton Woven | 112cm | Approx. 80gsm including adhesive | Wider, value-focused option |
1. Vlieseline G700 – the established woven cotton choice
Vlieseline G700 is a woven cotton fusible interfacing designed for adding stability to smaller garment sections.
Made from 100% cotton, it is 90cm wide and has a weight of 90gsm.
It is particularly suitable for:
- Shirt and blouse collars
- Cuffs
- Lightweight to medium-weight garments
- Small garment details requiring additional stability
G700 is washable up to 60°C and is applied using a damp pressing cloth, with approximately 12 seconds of pressing time per section.
It's a good starting point for dressmakers looking for a recognised woven cotton interfacing.
View Vlieseline G700 and available lengths.
2. Vlieseline B700 – woven cotton with biodegradable adhesive
Vlieseline B700 is another 100% cotton woven fusible interfacing, with a 90gsm weight and 90cm width.
Its distinguishing feature is its adhesive, which has been developed using natural raw materials and has been tested for biodegradability and ecotoxicological harmlessness.
It is particularly suitable for:
- Shirt and blouse collars
- Cuffs
- Lightweight to medium-weight fabrics
- Garment construction where a biodegradable adhesive is preferred
B700 has similar intended applications to G700, but it has different adhesive and care specifications.
It is recommended for washing up to 30°C, and the application instructions specify approximately 15 seconds of pressing time.
View Vlieseline B700 and application guidance.
3. Hemline HN100 – medium-weight woven cotton interfacing
Hemline HN100 is a medium-weight woven cotton iron-on interfacing designed for adding support to garment details.
It is made from 100% cotton, has a weight of 90gsm and is 90cm wide.
It is particularly suitable for:
- Blouses and shirts
- Collars and cuffs
- Garment facings
- Light- to medium-weight fabrics
HN100 is washable up to 60°C. The manufacturer's application guidance recommends pressing for approximately 10–12 seconds using a damp pressing cloth.
With similar headline specifications and applications to Vlieseline G700, HN100 is an alternative for dressmakers looking to compare established interfacing brands. Similar specifications do not guarantee an identical feel or finish, so test with your fabric first.
View Hemline HN100, including samples, metre lengths and full rolls.
4. Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex – a versatile American favourite
Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex is an all-purpose woven cotton fusible interfacing.
Made from 100% cotton, it is particularly popular in sewing, quilting and bag-making projects.
Its applications include:
- Collars and cuffs
- Yokes and pockets
- Garment facings
- Handbags and pouches
- Needlework and punch embroidery
- Quilting and other textile projects
Unlike G700 and HN100, which are 90cm wide, the SF101 options stocked here are 20 inches (50.8cm) wide. This is an important difference when calculating how much material you need.
Pellon recommends pre-shrinking SF101 before use by soaking it in warm water for approximately ten minutes. Always follow its own application instructions rather than assuming that the same pressing method used for another brand will be suitable.
For sewists following American bag-making patterns or looking for a recognised Pellon product, SF101 is an option to consider.
Choose Pellon SF101 cut from the roll for a 10cm × 10cm sample or half-metre increments. Multiple half-metre quantities are supplied as one continuous length.
Alternatively, choose the Pellon SF101 1-yard pre-pack, measuring 20″ × 1 yard (approximately 50.8cm × 91.4cm). Each pack is a separate piece, not a continuous cut when ordering multiples.
5. The Yorkshire Sewing Guy cotton woven interfacing – a wider alternative
Our own Yorkshire Sewing Guy cotton woven fusible interfacing offers another option for customers looking for woven support at a competitive price.
It has a 100% cotton base fabric with a polyamide adhesive coating and is approximately 80gsm overall.
At 112cm wide, it offers considerably more coverage than the 90cm Vlieseline and Hemline options and the 20-inch Pellon SF101.
It is suitable for cotton fabrics and a variety of sewing, bag-making and craft applications where you want additional stability without excessive stiffness.
Available in white cotton woven fusible interfacing and black cotton woven fusible interfacing, it is a practical alternative for customers who want a wider woven fusible interfacing without necessarily choosing a premium branded product.
These alternatives are not identical products: check the weight, adhesive, care and application instructions before substituting one for another.
Which woven interfacing is best for your project?
There isn't one universal winner. The best choice depends on your fabric, the amount of support required and the finished result you want.
For dressmaking and shirts
Vlieseline G700 and Hemline HN100 are both options for collars, cuffs and other garment details. Both are 90gsm, 90cm wide and made from woven cotton.
When a biodegradable adhesive is a priority
Vlieseline B700 is worth considering because it uses a biodegradable adhesive that has undergone independent testing. This feature does not establish the environmental impact or biodegradability of your finished garment, which will also depend on its other materials.
For bag making and accessories
Pellon SF101 is a popular all-purpose option, particularly for handbags and pouches. Our own cotton woven interfacing is another option when you need a wider cut.
Remember that woven interfacing provides support rather than the substantial structure of a dedicated bag stabiliser. For a very structured handbag, you may need a heavier product such as Decovil or a specialist stabiliser.
For value and wider fabric coverage
The Yorkshire Sewing Guy cotton woven interfacing offers a 112cm width and is available in both white and black.
Why does interfacing width matter?
Width is one of the most overlooked factors when choosing interfacing. A 20-inch product such as Pellon SF101 is considerably narrower than the 90cm Vlieseline and Hemline options. Our own-brand woven interfacing is 112cm wide.
This matters when working on larger projects, calculating material requirements and trying to get the best value from your purchase. Compare usable width and the layout of your pattern pieces, not just the price per metre.
Always check the width before ordering, particularly when substituting one manufacturer's interfacing for another.
Tips for using woven fusible interfacing
- Follow the grain. Woven interfacing has a grain direction, so position your pattern pieces accordingly.
- Test first. Always test the interfacing on a scrap of your chosen fabric.
- Use the right temperature. Different adhesives require different temperatures and pressing times.
- Don't slide your iron. Lift and reposition it, following the manufacturer's instructions.
- Allow it to cool. Many woven interfacings benefit from being left flat to cool completely after application.
- Check washing instructions. Different products have different recommended care temperatures. Follow the requirements of the finished project's least washable component.
Where can you buy woven interfacing in the UK?
At The Yorkshire Sewing Guy, we offer woven fusible interfacing from recognised brands including Vlieseline, Hemline and Pellon, alongside our own-brand cotton woven alternatives.
We believe choosing interfacing shouldn't be confusing, which is why we provide clear product information and application guidance to help you select the right material for your project.
Whether you need a small quantity for a sewing project or a full roll for regular use, you'll find a choice of widths, brands and price points.
All orders are dispatched from our Yorkshire base, with products sourced through UK supply channels.
Explore the linked products above to compare available sizes and find the right woven interfacing for your next sewing project.