Choosing the right interfacing is an important part of dressmaking. It can make the difference between a collar that sits neatly, cuffs that retain their shape and a garment that has the finish you intended.
But with different types, weights and brands available, how do you know which one to choose?
Woven interfacing is a popular dressmaking option because its fabric-like construction adds support and stability alongside your chosen material. There isn't one best product for every garment: start with your pattern's recommendation, then test with your actual fabric.
This guide explains where to use woven interfacing and compares options from Vlieseline, Hemline, Pellon and The Yorkshire Sewing Guy.
What is woven interfacing?
Woven interfacing is made from fibres woven together, creating a material with a construction similar to ordinary fabric. Unlike non-woven interfacing, it has a grain direction, which matters when positioning and cutting your pattern pieces.
The right product can add support without excessive stiffness, although any interfacing may change the feel and drape of your fabric.
Common dressmaking applications include:
- Shirts and blouses
- Collars and cuffs
- Waistbands on dresses, skirts and trousers
- Button plackets
- Pockets and facings
- Garment yokes
- Selected areas of lightweight and medium-weight clothing
All the products compared below are fusible: they have an adhesive coating that bonds to the wrong side of your fabric using heat from an iron.
Why use woven interfacing for dressmaking?
A fabric-like construction
Woven interfacing can work well alongside woven dress fabrics because it has a similar construction. Choose the weight and finished feel to suit the garment rather than assuming any woven product will work.
Support without excessive stiffness
A suitable interfacing adds body and stability without making your garment unnecessarily rigid. A small fused test piece is the best starting point for judging the result.
Helps garment details retain their shape
Interfacing reinforces areas subject to movement and handling, helping collars, cuffs and other details maintain their intended shape.
Useful for smaller garment sections
Often, only selected areas need reinforcement rather than the whole garment. Follow your pattern's instructions for which pieces to interface.
Which parts of a garment need interfacing?
1. Collars
Interfacing helps a collar sit neatly and hold a defined shape. Depending on the fabric and desired finish, options to test include Vlieseline G700, Hemline HN100 and Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex.
2. Cuffs
Cuffs need to retain their shape while remaining comfortable. Woven interfacing can add stability around buttons and buttonholes. G700 and HN100 are both intended for small areas such as cuffs on shirts and blouses.
3. Button plackets
A suitable interfacing can reinforce the areas around buttons and buttonholes and help reduce distortion during sewing and wear. Choose the support and application method recommended for your fabric and pattern.
4. Waistbands
Depending on your fabric and pattern, woven interfacing may provide suitable support while retaining a fabric-like finish. Some waistbands need a different or firmer stabiliser, so follow the pattern and test the finished feel before applying it to the complete piece.
5. Pockets and facings
Interfacing can help support pocket openings and give facings more body, particularly with lightweight fabrics. SF101's stated applications include pockets and facings, making it one option to test.
How do you choose the right weight of woven interfacing?
Heavier is not automatically better. The purpose of interfacing is to complement your fabric and create the intended finish, not overpower it.
| Fabric being used | What to consider |
|---|---|
| Lightweight cotton | A lighter-feeling product that gives the required support without losing too much drape |
| Cotton poplin | Woven cotton interfacing that supports the garment detail without excessive stiffness |
| Quilting cotton | A woven fusible option tested for the particular garment or accessory |
| Medium-weight cotton | The required level of support, not just the interfacing's weight label |
| Linen | A fused test piece to check handle, drape and appearance |
| Polycotton | Heat tolerance, adhesive compatibility and finished feel |
| Stretch or knit fabric | A product suitable for the fabric and the stretch needed in that area; SF101 is intended for some light- to medium-weight knits, but a woven interfacing can restrict stretch |
These are starting points, not fixed rules. The weave, finish, weight and behaviour of your actual fabric all matter. Make a small test piece and check the bond, drape and support before committing to your garment.
Comparing woven interfacing brands
At The Yorkshire Sewing Guy, we offer options from Vlieseline, Hemline and Pellon alongside our own-range woven cotton interfacing. Similar descriptions or weights do not guarantee identical results.
Vlieseline G700 – established woven cotton interfacing
Vlieseline G700 is a 100% cotton woven fusible interfacing, 90gsm and 90cm wide, intended for small garment sections such as shirt and blouse collars and cuffs.
Vlieseline describes the interfacing as heavyweight while recommending it for light- to medium-weight fabrics. These descriptions refer to different things: the interfacing itself and the fabric it supports.
G700 is washable up to 60°C. Application guidance specifies a damp pressing cloth and approximately 12 seconds per section, followed by around 30 minutes cooling flat.
Vlieseline B700 – woven cotton with biodegradable adhesive
Vlieseline B700 is also 100% cotton, 90gsm and 90cm wide. It is intended for small garment sections, including collars and cuffs, on light- to medium-weight fabrics.
Its distinguishing feature is its adhesive, made using natural raw materials and tested for biodegradability and ecotoxicological harmlessness by the Hohenstein Institute. This feature does not establish the environmental impact or biodegradability of a finished garment, which also depends on its other materials.
B700 is washable up to 30°C. Its application guidance specifies a damp cloth, approximately 15 seconds pressing per section and around 30 minutes cooling flat. Do not assume G700's care instructions apply to B700.
Hemline HN100 – medium-weight woven cotton interfacing
Hemline HN100 in white is a medium-weight cotton woven iron-on interfacing for garment details such as collars, cuffs, plackets and facings.
It is 100% cotton, 90gsm and 90cm wide, with suitability for light- to medium-weight fabrics. Hemline's guidance specifies washing up to 60°C, pressing for approximately 10–12 seconds with a damp cloth and cooling flat for around 30 minutes.
Its headline specifications are similar to G700's, but test before substituting: the feel and bonding characteristics need not be identical. A 10cm × 10cm sample, metre lengths and a 25-metre roll are available as buying options.
Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex – versatile woven interfacing
Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex is an American all-purpose woven cotton fusible interfacing. The white options stocked here are 20″ (50.8cm) wide.
Pellon's stated garment and needlework applications include collars, cuffs, yokes, pockets, facings and backing for needlework and punch embroidery. It is also used for bags, pouches, quilting and other sewing projects.
SF101 is intended for light- to medium-weight woven and knit fabrics. For stretch garments, check whether the interfaced section still needs to stretch and follow your pattern's recommendation.
Pellon recommends pre-shrinking by soaking in warm water for approximately 10 minutes, gently squeezing out excess water and line drying. Do not machine wash or tumble dry the interfacing on its own to pre-shrink it, as this may loosen the adhesive.
Application guidance specifies a wool/steam iron setting, a thin damp pressing cloth and 10–15 seconds of firm pressing per section. Follow the supplied instructions, allow the fabric to cool and check the bond.
Choose SF101 cut from the roll for half-metre increments or a 10cm × 10cm sample. Multiple half-metre quantities are supplied as one continuous length. Alternatively, choose the 20″ × 1 yard SF101 pre-pack, approximately 50.8cm × 91.4cm. Each pack is a separate piece, not a continuous cut when ordering multiples.
The Yorkshire Sewing Guy cotton woven interfacing – a wider alternative
Our own-range woven fusible interfacing is available in white and black.
- 100% cotton base fabric with polyamide adhesive coating.
- Approximately 80gsm including adhesive.
- 112cm wide.
- Washable up to 40°C.
- Suited to cotton fabrics.
The wider format may be useful when your pattern pieces need more coverage. Compare current prices alongside usable width and your cutting layout when assessing value.
This is an alternative, not an identical replacement for G700 or SF101. Follow its own application instructions and test the finished feel with your fabric.
Woven interfacing comparison table
| Product | Base material | Weight | Width | Washing guidance |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Vlieseline G700 | 100% cotton | 90gsm | 90cm | Up to 60°C |
| Vlieseline B700 | 100% cotton | 90gsm | 90cm | Up to 30°C |
| Hemline HN100 | 100% cotton | 90gsm | 90cm | Up to 60°C |
| Pellon SF101 | 100% cotton | GSM not specified in our listing | 50.8cm | Machine wash warm after application |
| TYSG Cotton Woven | 100% cotton, with PA adhesive | Approx. 80gsm including adhesive | 112cm | Up to 40°C |
All these products use fusible adhesive, even where the base material is described as 100% cotton. Their adhesives and application instructions may differ. For the finished garment, follow the care requirements of the least washable component.
Can you use woven interfacing on lightweight fabrics?
Yes, if the product is suitable for the fabric and your test piece gives the required result. A lightweight fabric does not automatically need the same interfacing as another fabric of similar weight.
Very delicate, sheer or heat-sensitive fabrics need particular care: adhesive, heat and pressure can change their appearance, drape or feel. A suitable sew-in interfacing may be worth considering for materials such as silk or velvet, depending on the fabric and garment.
Always test before applying interfacing to your finished garment.
How to apply woven fusible interfacing
The basic principle is similar, but preparation, temperature, moisture, pressing time and cooling requirements vary between products.
- Check the product's preparation guidance, including whether pre-shrinking is recommended.
- Cut the interfacing following the grain direction and your pattern's instructions.
- Place the adhesive-coated side against the wrong side of the fabric.
- Use a suitable pressing cloth and moisture where specified.
- Press using the manufacturer's recommended temperature and time.
- Lift and reposition the iron rather than sliding it.
- Leave the pieces flat to cool for the recommended time, then check the bond.
Always test that your fabric tolerates the required heat and steam. Do not use one brand's pressing instructions for every interfacing.
Common mistakes when choosing woven interfacing
Choosing something too heavy
Too much support can make a garment unnecessarily stiff. Judge the fused test piece, not just the weight label.
Ignoring the grain direction
Woven interfacing has a grain, just like ordinary fabric. Positioning it incorrectly can affect the garment's behaviour.
Using the same pressing method for every product
G700, B700, HN100, SF101 and our own-range interfacing have their own preparation and application guidance.
Skipping the fabric test
Check adhesion, appearance, drape and support on an offcut before applying to your garment.
Forgetting washing requirements
Choose care-compatible materials. An interfacing that tolerates a hotter wash does not make your main fabric safe to wash at that temperature.
Forgetting width and units
Check the width assumed by your pattern and whether the required length is in metres or yards. A wider interfacing may permit a different cutting layout, but always follow the grain.
Where can you buy woven interfacing in the UK?
At The Yorkshire Sewing Guy, we offer woven cotton interfacing from Vlieseline, Hemline and Pellon alongside our own-range alternatives, with a choice of widths and buying options.
Whether you want G700 for garment details, B700 with its biodegradable adhesive, HN100, SF101 or a wider cotton option, compare the specifications and choose for your project rather than the brand name alone.
Every interfacing order includes free printed application instructions, whether you buy a small sample, a cut length or a full roll. We'll include printed guidance so you don't have to find and print it yourself.
Whether you're an experienced dressmaker or just getting started, we're here to help you find a suitable product.
Explore our woven interfacing range
Browse our woven cotton interfacing collection to compare the brands, widths and buying options for your next sewing project.
Good sewing starts with choosing suitable materials, and we're here to help. Sewing and haberdashery supplies, dispatched from Yorkshire.